Things Ive Learned the Hard Way
"You got to know when to hold em, know when to fold em,
Know when to walk away and know when to run."
- Kenny Rogers - The Gambler
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tu5W9G8s9YQ
Bike Touring is 33% physical, 33% mental and 33% logistics. I have the physical down pat. The other two I'm very lacking. So out the gate, alone, I'm down 66%. My wonderful wife makes up my missing 66%. Without her, I'm doomed. The Super Tour I did a few years ago had the logistics worked out already, and the mental was there a bit in that it wasn't so crushingly lonely.
California was ok, the ride up to Sacramento was really nice and I met a wonderful couple that took me in the first night and fed me. The next day, I stupidly didn't get water before heading up Mormon Emigrant Trail to Hwy 88. It started hailing and raining and I took refuge in a tree and shivered. A kind soul stopped and gave me a 1/2 gallon of water. I made it to a hotel that had rooms for 267$ a night and they were kind enough to drive me back to the RV park up the hill where I spent a freezing night not sleeping. I met a very nice backpacking couple and we shared stories over dinner.
Nevada was 'another thing.' I had heard it was lonely but so was I and the combo didn't go over well. The climbs were ok (all 47 of them) but the plains were brutal, cold, boring, windy and loooooong (all 47 of them). The little towns along the way are sort of nice to blow through at 70mph but I had to stay in each and every one of them. In a lot of them, my loneliness was all the more apparent. During the particularly cold and rainy parts, I seriously wondered what I was doing there. Heading into Ely off the pass was 18 miles of solid, cold, driving rain. You really begin to wonder why in the world you are doing this, especially in Nevada on Hwy 50 where there is nothing much to see.
On the last pass before Baker, NV, I met a woman that told me about Moab and Baker, and made me feel better. Baker was a jewel in the middle of nothing. The Lectrolux cafe owner let me sleep in his backyard free, and let me borrow his mountain bike to go tooling around the small town. Lots of fun kids were there working for the National Park and I met the two women that were heading to Miami. I rode up the Lehman Caves and got a semi private tour of the caves by flashlight.
Utah was something else entirely. The headwinds were incredible 25mph sustained and 40mph gusts. Coming into Cedar City I had a hard time controlling the bike and it was 50 miles of unrelenting wind. My plan was to go farther but the wind was unforgiving.
Finally the ride into Zion National Park along Hwy 9 was what I was looking for. Beautiful scenery, mild wind, sunny day. I stopped in this cool cafe with live music and couches to have a root beer. The patrons treated me like family for the 15 minutes I was there. Zion is unbelievably beautiful and I decided to have a rest day. That night the wind from the canyon was brutal and my tent was totally inadequate. I was up all night trying to lash the tent to tables and trees to keep it from falling over.
The next day I did an early morning ride into the canyon (the absolute highlight of the trip so far with indescribable beauty and almost no one else around). I had stupidly left food in the tent and when I came back there was a squirrel inside the tent, having chewed a hole in the netting, that I had to shoo out. I also noticed that the tent was covered, inside and out, with a fine red dust, from the battering it took the night before. I threw out the food and sealed up the tent as best I could. I spent the rest of the day hiking the small hikes around the canyon and although it was nice, I really wished my family was there. When I came back to the tent, I found the front pole was snapped in half and unusable. I was only able to get a cheap, crappy tent at the local supermarket and bunkered down to another sleepless night in the brutal canyon winds. I decided that night that it was time to end it, cut my losses and head home. The next day I was in Vegas by 1:30 and home by 6pm.
I'm very happy to be home. There was no equipment to be had in Zion and I didn't relish heading into the high desert with a supermarket tent. Ive learned I'm only good at the physical aspects of touring and need someone else to handle the other 66%. I've learned that ultralight touring doesn't cut it when the conditions are unusually harsh and brutal but I don't want to *be* touring at all when the conditions are unusually harsh and brutal. I've learned that what might an interesting place to blow through at 70mph is not that interesting when you have to stay there. And although I knew this before, headwinds suck.
Thanks for all your good wishes and concerns. I am happy to be safe and at home.
